Anatoli Boukreev's Heroic Actions

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Alisha Boisvert

Essay #7

English 101

11/18/0

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Anatoli Boukreevs Heroic Actions

On May 10, 16, many climbers were stuck on top of Mt. Everest in what is looked at as the "deadliest season in Everest history" (Krakauer back cover). People could not get down because the storm was so fierce. Anatoli Boukreev, a Russian guide on Scott Fischers Mountain Madness team, made many rescues which Galen Rowell, a mountain photographer, described as some "of the most amazing rescues in mountaineering history" (Lalime ). Boukreev, co-author of The Climb, has climbed many mountains including "four 8000 meter peeks in 80 days" (Mountain Zone 1). This achievement shows that Boukreev has had a lot of experience with climbing. In May of 16 Boukreev was climbing Everest as a guide. On May 10 the group of climbers on Everest reached the summit and started their trek back down. Boukreev left the summit before the rest of his group and made it down to Camp IV, which many people see as being an inappropriate action for a guide because a guide is supposed to stay with the climbers to help them when it is needed. Later that day as the climbers were making their way down, a huge storm hit and made it difficult to descend. Climbers were stuck on the mountain, and their oxygen was running out. Boukreev made four extreme attempts to save people including his own leader, Fischer. Even though Boukreev saved three lives that day, his actions were looked down upon by others. Boukreev's rescues were very heroic and he was right in coming down the mountain ahead of his clients because he was the only one who had enough strength to climb back up and save them.

Boukreevs decision to descend ahead of his clients was well thought out, it was not just a spur of the moment thing. Before ascending to the summit of Mt. Everest Boukreev had had a talk with Fischer about descending ahead of the clients in order to "set up camp and prepare tea and oxygen for the descending climbers" (Lalime ). Fischers publicist, Jane Bromet, had also announced that it was Fischers plan for Boukreev to descend ahead of the clients (Lalime ). It had been agreed upon that this was the right thing to do so that if the clients needed anything, such as oxygen, Boukreev would be there to help. Critics such as Jon Krakauer, a climber who was also climbing Everest on May 10, feel that Boukreev was wrong in going down the mountain ahead of his clients. Krakauer called Boukreevs actions "extremely questionable behavior for a guide" (Boukreev and DeWalt 1). Krakauer also thought that Boukreev just decided to go back down early so that he could rest. Krakauer failed to note that Boukreev had in fact discussed this plan with Fischer. So he had not just decided last minute to descend because he was tired and needed rest, he descended because that was the plan.

Boukreev and Fischers plan worked because once the storm hit Boukreevs assistance was needed. Boukreev had a feeling that if he had stayed on the mountain with the clients than he would not have been able to help when it was needed. Boukreev states this clearly when he says

I had no clear idea that the weather was a potential problem until I was well on the mountain. My concern, as was Scotts, was that the climbers oxygen supplies were going to run out. I did the job Scott wanted me to do. If I had been farther up the mountain when the full force of the storm hit, I think it is likely I would have died with the clients. I honestly do. I am not a superman. In that weather, we all could possibly have died.(Boukreev and DeWalt 1).

Critics may say that if Boukreev had been on the mountain leading the clients than he would have been there in the first place to offer his help and lead them in the right direction. However, Boukreev knew that if he had gone down any later he would have died. If he had gone down any later than there would have been no one left to save the clients because Boukreev was the only one who was there that could help.

Boukreev knew that if he descended rapidly, like planned, then he would have enough strength to go back up and supply the climbers with oxygen and hot tea (Boukreev and DeWalt 154). This plan worked because when the people were in danger Boukreev was the only one strong enough to go back up and help. He mentions how when he asked the people who were at camp, such as the members on Rob Hall's expedition team, they "were either asleep, unable or unwilling to lend support" (Boukreev and DeWalt 188). There would have been no one around to save the clients who were in need of help if Boukreev hadnt descended ahead of the group. Everyone was weak from climbing through the storm but Boukreev was the only one who had enough strength to climb.

Boukreev was there in the time of need. Boukreev didnt just go up once that day in attempt to save people, he went up four times, the fourth attempt being for Fischer. He was unable to save Fischers life but he managed to save three others that day; Charlotte Fox, Tim Madsen, and Sandy Hill Pittman, all of whom were on Fischers team. If Boukreev had been on up the mountain with the rest of his team he might have died, but because he and Fischer had planned for him to descend ahead he was there when the clients needed him the most, and that makes his actions honorable.

Works Cited

"Anatoli Boukreevs Climbing History." The Mountain Zone. http//www.mountainzone.com/climbing/boukreev/resume.html

Boukreev, Anatoli, and Weston G. DeWalt. The Climb. New York St. Martins Griffin, 1.

Krakauer, Jon. Into Thin Air. New York Anchor Books, 1.

Lalime, Suzette. "Remembering An Everest Hero." Wander Lust. 000. http//www.archive.salon.com/wlust/feature/18/01/16featureb.html

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