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The bright sunlight slanting down through the large green leaves, the lush green of the plum shaped hills behind the town, the pink bougainvillaea cascading over the garden walls, the square boxes of the concrete buildings. The luxury villas up in the hills, the slums on the plane of the city below stretching away to the harbour and the sea.Not that everyone lives well here. The news this morning is that a three-year old boy was burned to death after his 15-year old mother left him with a candle burning and went to the movies. The buses are on strike and traffic is heavy..
Saturday 1 Jan 14
After a long drive through downtown Kingston, we found the beautiful synagogue. The service was sparsely attended, read in Reform style with about 75% in English. The organist had flu and was unable to come! The Friday night service managed to last 1 and a quarter hours,
up and up into the wooded hills, tropical plants and bananas everywhere, up to 400 feet and the Pinegrove Hotel, and spectacular views down the mountains to the sea The Blue Mountains they call them, but really they are lush and luxuriant and green.. In the country there are people on foot everywhere, children in the street, holes in the road, clouds on the distant mountains everywhere else sunlight and pure air, flowers blooming, fruit on the trees, rich green grass, cool breezes, a country ripe and abundant as the T- shirt slogan says If I cant get to heaven, God please take me to Jamaica...
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85% of the community intermarry. We were talking to one of the mums when we took Samuel to cheder for the first time on Saturday (it is held at am before the service at 10). Her name is Jennifer Henriques, she is a Catholic from Trinidad married to a Jew, and her children attend a Catholic School, but take Jewish holidays off. She says they know well not to cross themselves in Shul! Maybe they do better than our two they misbehaved terribly in shul here, and spent their time playing with the sand on the floor (a strange custom with various explanations).
Went outside and sat in the sand talking to Stephen Henriques. Some of the old families still insist on a conversion if a member marries out, but many dont bother even with that. You can have a civil wedding but he was married in a Catholic church in Trinidad his own mother was not Jewish. But he brings his children to cheder every week. In 186 the family sold their car dealership in downtown Kingston it was the oldest Ford dealership outside the US.
A hard weeks work, broken only by Ash Wednesday and a visit to Rev. Dr. Howard Gregory, Principal of the United Theological College and Lecturer in Pastoral Care. There are twelve full time lecturers living in and about a hundred students, most of them residential too, for they come from all over the Caribbean; Anglican, Methodist, Baptist and Free Church. Married accommodation is going up and there will soon be children on the beautiful Mona campus with the hills all around.. And the library is air-conditioned. We have a nice chat about some lectures for me and the college with only two weeks to go till the lectures start on March nd, I shall have to work hard! I spend some time reading in the library, where books of Jewish interest are in three separate sections. Not much useful to me, though its the first time Ive seen a complete English translation of Luthers On the Jews and their lies.
Sunday Feb 7th 14
The day of the Synagogue Purim party, supposedly a childrens party, but with more adults than children. It was a small house, but swimming pool next door belonging to their estate. An enormous satellite dish on the roof gave the clearest television pictures I have ever seen! I was photographed reading my paper megillah to the children, and a good time was had by all in the Purim heat. I brought a banana cake with me, and everyone sung Happy Birthday, dear Rabbi! Ernest de Souza (the lay leader/minister here) told me a joke about the Gleaner , Jamaicas national newspaper owned by some Jewish families here. It seem that when Michael Manley was Prime Minister, he was always complaining that the Gleaner kept criticising him. When the Pope was visiting Jamaica, he was in a boat with Michael Manley when his (the popes) yarmulke blew off. The Prime Minister offered to get it for him, and proceeded to walk across the water to fetch it. Next day the headline in the paper was PRIME MINISTER CANNOT SWIM!
We have been round most parts of Kingston (in daylight, in the car, with the doors locked) and not seen any violence yet but there are about murders a day which works out a 75 per year per million of population (the population being a little over million) in Britain there are 4 per million. Claires patients talk about the shootings and very many of them turn out to be domestic disputes of one kind or another. The other amazing fact about this city is that % of babies are born outside marriage, possibly the highest in the world. What redeems Kingston is its setting by the lush green mountains covered with fruit trees imagine Israel with the sea all around and lush and green instead of brown and you have Jamaica. This small country has the fifth highest number of endemic species in the world environment here means preserving trees and wildlife, not recycling bottles..When the warm tropical rain comes down you soon get dry again. What surprises me about all the violence and morals is that this is a very Christian society plenty of people in their Sunday best in the streets (On Sundays, that is) off to Church and preachers on TV and Jamaica is living proof that you dont stop crime with strict parenting and a traditional school system there are uniforms and the three Rs and learning poetry by rote and caning and discipline and detentions its a system which has its good points, but you can tell John Major it wont help his crime problem -
Or you could look at Kingston simply as a suburb of Miami the rich go off there for weekends and on business, and the criminals smuggle their guns from there. It sounds just as violent and threatening. In our suburb the supermarket sell frozen beigels and pickled dill cucumbers from Miami not traditional Jamaican fare, I think. The new roads are called Boulevards and the shopping centres Plazas fast food would be here if they could persuade the local workers to abandon their traditional slow speed and if you have a satellite dish you can get the whole range of USA programmes and dont have to depend for news on the Jewish families who own the Gleaner here.
Today was our day out to Rev. Carlton and Carla Clarke in Highgate. That is the country area, one hour and twenty minutes drive from Kingston, where we got lost last week. This time we found it without mishap, in a village area with houses strung out along the main road. Carla and Carlton have cocoa and naseberry trees in their garden. The local people work in the chocolate factory or on the banana plantations; if there is no work there they have to go to Ocho Rios to find work in the tourist trade there is nothing else. We were introduced to a Mr. Campbell who once spent three months in Israel on an agriculture course at one time there were a hundred Israelis doing agricultural work in Jamaica. And Claire met the local eccentric personalities, the elderly Mr and Miss Goffe who provide the link with us indirectly, for they introduced Carla to the Sickle Cell Unit, where she is working. She is a final year medical student and is going to have a hard time working far from home during her house jobs. Her husband seems to be a workaholic who did about visits during the time we were there he obviously enjoys people and spends his days giving lifts there is no bus service to speak of in the area.
A member of the Jewish community here asks why there is no liberation theology in Latin America its very big and enables the Church to act as critics of the government.
A fun evening in the dark of the Kingston night. The Canadian High Commissioner leaves in her smart chauffeured Mercedes with the maple leaf flying and the party seems to be over. Tomorrow its back to work.
Port Royal
A visit to the Church followed, with many plaques to British seamen who had died of yellow fever, and to one young soldier killed when his cannon exploded.
the Oscar ceremony live from Los Angeles. It seemed strange to see the slick presentations constantly interrupted by the home-made video adverts from nearby shops in Kingston. One of them was for the local furniture store, United Bedding. The Advert showed a quarrelling couple at it hammer and tongs because their bed was uncomfortable. The slogan was Sleep United and reap the benefit!
Some of the road signs amused us. They rarely say anything useful! One read Restaurant ahead. Good food. Fortune teller next door.
Seder night and at Seawind we had six relatives, three other local families and a family of tourists from Montreal - twenty in all. I helped lead the prayers and the Seder was like any other family Seder - except for the setting on the veranda with the full moon rising over the harbour and the cruise ships docked nearby. There was very much the sense of seder in a holiday resort, a sense of exhilaration and relaxation.
At one side on the beach sits Paul White, who was at our seder last night he and his wife summer in San Francisco but have been spending the winter in Montego Bay for the last forty years. Every day he holds court on the beach and attracts a kind of coffee-house crowd round him discussing every subject under the sun. This morning he is with Emile Martin, leader of the town council and author of a new guide book to the Local Church.
After lunch we drove up into the hills to visit Bath Spring. People stared on the narrow road as if they had never seen a car before, but perhaps this was to fool us for where the road came to an end there were plenty of parked cars. We walked along a treacherous path to where dozens of people were bathing in the hot water coming out of a pipe from the hillside. A little way down the stream the public mineral baths were in full swing. Rasta men smoked ganga and sold coconuts. One of them asked Samuel his name and bent down for the answer, his dreadlocks swinging in Samuels face. A prophet name Samuel he said. We bought jelly coconuts and drank the cool coconut water from inside. Using the spoon cut from the outside we eat the jelly like meat from the middle. Soothing and very filing. Samuel did not like the coconut so we had to content him with a length of sugar cane. He soon got the hang of sucking out the sugar and spitting out the fibre. You need a lot of cane for every pound of sugar!
On the radio phone-in there is more talk about corrupt politicians. Apparently the BBC made a programme interviewing a wealthy man in his swimming pool, who is accused of fraud. He is confident of getting off because he has friends in high places. The radio commentators view was that people get the politicians they deserve. In this country they come into your house and taste your soup and you say what a nice man and vote for him.
Misguided giving has resulted in Black River Hospital being given a computer by a Christian Missionary Organisation and no programmes and no idea how to use it.
Samuels school had a play visiting Nuff respect fi Nature performed by Jamaicas Environment Trust. The programme was neatly printed onto a teatowel, so that it is renewable - also perhaps because there is no paper recycling here. The turnout from Hillel parents was frankly appalling - there couldnt have been more than a dozen, and there was a group from Jacks Hill all-age School. The show was a musical in Jamaican style detailing all the pollution in Kingston Harbour and all the environmental problems. In the end the Big Businessman who had caused such evil realised he might be affected too so he started collecting used bottles and generally helping. The performers were mainly children and teenagers who sang at the top of their voices and danced with great gusto. Beforehand they showed us a rehearsal and after they answered questions from the audience. But Jamaica has a long way to go. When we left we saw the nearby hills in deep shadow in the gathering dusk, towering above the school. It seemed hard to believe this is a polluted land.
One item mentioned in the show as a threatened species is the Large Hornet Butterfly, the second largest in the world and endemic to Jamaica. Samuel and I saw one the other day outside our front door, its brown wings with the span of a bird, the largest butterfly I have ever seen.
The Island Life auditorium was transformed into a big social gathering as they served cocktails before the performance. Please meet this one and than one - even on the way out at 11 pm it was Rabbi I would like to introduce you to Bishop de Souza.! I thought I had met him another day but this looked like a different Bishop. Strange how they go around incognito in ordinary clothes here.
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